In July 1976, my wife Mary, son
Jonathan, 6, daughter Suzanne, 7, and I set sail from Plymouth, England, to
duplicate the round-the-world voyage made 200 years earlier by Captain James
Cook. For the longest time, Mary and I — a 37-year-old businessman — had dreamt
of sailing in the wake of the famous explorer, and for the past 16 years we had
spent all our leisure time honing our seafaring skills in British waters.
Our boat Wavewalker, a 23 metre, 30
ton wooden-hulled beauty, had been professionally built, and we had spent
months fitting it out and testing it in the roughest weather we could find.
The first leg of our planned
three-year, 105,000 kilometre journey passed pleasantly as we sailed down the
west coast of Africa to Cape Town. There, before heading east, we took on two
crewmen — American Larry Vigil and Swiss Herb Seigler — to help us tackle one
of the world’s roughest seas, the southern Indian Ocean.
On our second day out of Cape Town, we
began to encounter strong gales. For the next few weeks, they blew
continuously. Gales did not worry me; but the size of the waves was alarming —
up to 15 metres, as high as our main mast.
December 25 found us 3,500 kilometres
east of Cape Town. Despite atrocious weather, we had a wonderful holiday
complete with a Christmas tree. New Year’s Day saw no improvement in the
weather, but we reasoned that it had to change soon. And it did change — for
the worse.
At dawn on January 2, the waves were
gigantic. We were sailing with only a small storm jib and were still making
eight knots. As the ship rose to the top of each wave we could see endless
enormous seas rolling towards us, and the screaming of the wind and spray was
painful to the ears. To slow the boat down, we dropped the storm jib and lashed
a heavy mooring rope in a loop across the stern. Then we double-lashed
everything, went through our life-raft drill, attached lifelines, donned
oilskins and life jackets — and waited.
The first indication of impending
disaster came at about 6 p.m., with an ominous silence. The wind dropped, and
the sky immediately grew dark. Then came a growing roar, and an enormous cloud
towered aft of the ship. With horror, I realised that it was not a cloud, but a
wave like no other I had ever seen. It appeared perfectly vertical and almost
twice the height of the other waves, with a frightful breaking crest.
The roar increased to a thunder as the
stern moved up the face of the wave, and for a moment I thought we might ride
over it. But then a tremendous explosion shook the deck. A torrent of green and
white water broke over the ship, my head smashed into the wheel and I was aware
of flying overboard and sinking below the waves. I accepted my approaching
death, and as I was losing consciousness, I felt quite peaceful.
Unexpectedly, my head popped out of
the water. A few metres away, Wavewalker was near capsizing, her masts almost
horizontal. Then a wave hurled her upright, my lifeline jerked taut, I grabbed
the guard rails and sailed through the air into Wavewalker’s main boom.
Subsequent waves tossed me around the deck like a rag doll. My left ribs
cracked; my mouth filled with blood and broken teeth. Somehow, I found the
wheel, lined up the stern for the next wave and hung on.
Water, Water, Everywhere. I could feel
that the ship had water below, but I dared not abandon the wheel to investigate.
Suddenly, the front hatch was thrown open and Mary appeared. “We’re sinking!”
she screamed. “The decks are smashed; we’re full of water.”
“Take the wheel”, I shouted as I
scrambled for the hatch.
Larry and Herb were pumping like
madmen. Broken timbers hung at crazy angles, the whole starboard side bulged
inwards; clothes, crockery, charts, tins and toys sloshed about in deep water.
I half-swam, half-crawled into the
children’s cabin. “Are you all right?” I asked. “Yes,” they answered from an
upper bunk. “But my head hurts a bit,” said Sue, pointing to a big bump above
her eyes. I had no time to worry about bumped heads.
After finding a hammer, screws and canvas,
I struggled back on deck. With the starboard side bashed open, we were taking water
with each wave that broke over us. If I couldn’t make some repairs, we would
surely sink.
Somehow I managed to stretch canvas
and secure waterproof hatch covers across the gaping holes. Some water continued
to stream below, but most of it was now being deflected over the side.
More problems arose when our hand
pumps started to block up with the debris floating around the cabins and the
electric pump short-circuited. The water level rose threateningly. Back on deck
I found that our two spare hand pumps had been wrenched overboard — along with
the forestay sail, the jib, the dinghies and the main anchor.
Then I remembered we had another
electric pump under the chartroom floor. I connected it to an out-pipe, and was
thankful to find it worked.
The night dragged on with an endless,
bitterly cold routine of pumping, steering and working the radio. We were
getting no replies to our Mayday calls — which was not surprising in this
remote corner of the world.
Sue’s head had swollen alarmingly; she
had two enormous black eyes, and now she showed us a deep cut on her arm. When
I asked why she hadn’t made more of her injuries before this, she replied, “I
didn’t want to worry you when you were trying to save us all.”
By morning on January 3, the pumps had
the water level sufficiently under control for us to take two hours’ rest in
rotation. But we still had a tremendous leak somewhere below the waterline and,
on checking, I found that nearly all the boat’s main rib frames were smashed
down to the keel. In fact, there was nothing holding up a whole section of the
starboard hull except a few cupboard partitions.
We had survived for 15 hours since the
wave hit, but Wavewalker wouldn’t hold together long enough for us to reach
Australia. I checked our charts and calculated that there were two small
islands a few hundred kilometres to the east. One of them, Ile Amsterdam, was a
French scientific base. Our only hope was to reach these pinpricks in the vast
ocean. But unless the wind and seas abated so we could hoist sail, our chances would
be slim indeed. The great wave had put our auxiliary engine out of action.
On January 4, after 36 hours of
continuous pumping, we reached the last few centimetres of water. Now, we had
only to keep pace with the water still coming in. We could not set any sail on
the main mast. Pressure on the rigging would simply pull the damaged section of
the hull apart, so we hoisted the storm jib and headed for where I thought the
two islands were. Mary found some corned beef and cracker biscuits, and we ate our
first meal in almost two days.
But our respite was short-lived. At 4
p.m. black clouds began building up behind us; within the hour the wind was back
to 40 knots and the seas were getting higher. The weather continued to
deteriorate throughout the night, and by dawn on January 5, be our situation
was again desperate.
When I went in to comfort the
children, Jon asked, “Daddy, are we going to die?” I tried to assure him that
we could make it. “But, Daddy,” he went on, “we aren’t afraid of dying if we
can all be together — you and Mummy, Sue and I.”
I could find no words with which to
respond, but I left the children’s cabin determined to fight the sea with everything
I had. To protect the weakened starboard side, I decided to heave-to — with the
undamaged port hull facing the oncoming waves, using an improvised sea anchor
of heavy nylon rope and two 22 litre plastic barrels of paraffin.
That evening, Mary and I sat together
holding hands, as the motion of the ship brought more and more water in through
the broken planks. We both felt the end was very near.
But Wavewalker rode out the storm and
by the morning of January 6, with the wind easing, I tried to get a reading on
the sextant. Back in the chartroom, I worked on wind speeds, changes of course,
drift and current in an effort to calculate our position. The best I could
determine was that we were somewhere in 150,000 kilometres of ocean looking for
a 65 kilometre-wide island.
While I was thinking, Sue, moving
painfully, joined me. The left side of her head was now very swollen and her
blackened eyes narrowed to slits. She gave me a card she had made.
On the front she had drawn caricatures
of Mary and me with the words: “Here are some funny people. Did they make you
laugh? I laughed a lot as well.” Inside was a message: “Oh, how I love you
both. So this card is to say thank you and let’s hope for the best.” Somehow we
had to make it.
I checked and rechecked my
calculations. We had lost our main compass and I was using a spare which had
not been corrected for magnetic variation. I made an allowance for this and
another estimate of the influence of the westerly currents which flow through
this part of the Indian Ocean.
About 2 p.m., I went on deck and asked
Larry to steer a course of 185 degrees. If we were lucky, I told him with a conviction
I did not feel, he could expect to see the island at about 5 p.m.
Then with a heavy heart, I went below,
climbed on my bunk and amazingly, dozed off. When I woke it was 6 p.m., and
growing dark. I knew we must have missed the island, and with the sail we had
left, we couldn’t hope to beat back into the westerly winds.
At that moment, a tousled head
appeared by my bunk. “Can I have a hug?” Jonathan asked. Sue was right behind
him.
“Why am I getting a hug now?” I asked.
“Because you are the best daddy in the
whole world — and the best captain,” my son replied.
“Not today, Jon, I’m afraid.”
“Why, you must be,” said Sue in a
matter-of-fact voice. “You found the island.”
“What!” I shouted.
“It’s out there in front of us,” they
chorused, “as big as a battleship.”
I rushed on deck and gazed with relief
at the stark outline of Ile Amsterdam. It was only a bleak piece of volcanic
rock, with little vegetation — the most beautiful island in the world!
We anchored offshore for the night,
and the next morning all 28 inhabitants of the island cheered as they helped us
ashore.
With land under my feet again, my
thoughts were full of Larry and Herbie, cheerful and optimistic under the
direst stress, and of Mary, who stayed at the wheel for all those crucial
hours. Most of all, I thought of a seven-year-old girl, who did not want us to
worry about a head injury (which subsequently took six minor operations to
remove a recurring blood clot between skin and skull), and of a six-year-old
boy who was not afraid to die.
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